WildJibe - Sunsetted
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Still-Pond-Sunset
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HACKED!
Sorry. It seems WildJibe was hacked for a bit. I've spent the day cleaning up and fixing the security hole. No personal data was released.
Unique Paint Jobs
I was digging through WildJibe and dug up what I thought were some of the most unique paint job on a Stiletto Catamaran. Did I miss any?
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Iguana
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Moving Target
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photo27
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Wormwood_Dream_Date
Stiletto-X: Unfinished boats rebuilt
I ran across some more information on the whereabouts of what happened to the remaining hulls from the Stiletto-X bankruptcy. Currved daggerboards look good. I am sure some other people might have more information on this, but I thought I'd put together some sources and the info I found. So my count is one finished "Original" Stiletto-X boat (The one at the Annoplis Boat Show) and Ojigwan Yachts has three they are finishing. Are there anymore?
From HardenTFUp on Sailing Anarchy: "When the company went bankrupt we ended up with the three in production boats. The first one hit the water last weekend. Carbon curved daggers, rudders, cassettes, and a modified M32 rotating carbon rig. We converted her from a centerboard design to a dagger cat and went with high aspect rudders in cassettes instead of the old kick up style. Evolution Sails did the sail plan and we worked with NZ Rigging on the rig/rig plan. She will be on the water in Annapolis this summer. We had to do quite a bit of re designing as none of the original tech data/drawings were available to us and the boat was very unfinished., thoug h folks might like an update. "
Sailing Anarchy - Facebook
HardenTFUp - @OJIGWANYACHTS
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/178612-new-stiletto-any-news-on-this-cat/
https://www.facebook.com/OJIGWANYACHTS/
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Stiletto - X
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.jpeg)
CCDownwind
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CCUpwind
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sail raised
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sail 2
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mast prep
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Iced in
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dagger trunk
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launching
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gin pole
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launched
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canopy
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Hull faired
More Modified Stiletto Catamarans
I ran across this the other day.
www.boatdesign.net
Eco Cat. "27' Stiletto Catamaran Two Parts Make One Power Cat"
https://www.boatdesign.net/gallery/27-stiletto-catamaran-two-parts-make-one-power-cat-transformable-back-to-sailing-cat.25718/
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Close on W B
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Beached Tramp Down
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Drone Shot Rigby Island 2
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Under Way 16 knots 18 mph
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LED Power Cat Lit Up
#TBT - Modifying Stiletto Catamarans
Throwback Thursday - #TBT
I saw on the Facebook Stiletto Catamaran Owners Group, Duly Chaltains - modified Stiletto 27. Modified to 33 ft, and it reminded me of another "Stretched" Stiletto. I had to do some digging through the old files of WildJibe. But I found it in the for sale section.
NOTE: THIS IS NOT A FOR SALE, It's just an old for sale archive I did not want to get lost.
This is quite possibly one of the finest custom Stiletto's on earth. Racer/cruiser. Custom sleeping berths in each hull. Professionally reconditioned to "like new" condition in 2005. Structural glassed in bed frames with extra floatation, and crash boxes. upsized sea hatches, Lewmar winches.
Set up to single-hand. Go camping or go fast, handles like a dream with a light helm that is quick and responsive. This is a very fast cat with no light air problems at all.
This cat was originally a "Stiletto 27" we added a 3' stern extension kit and a wave piercing bow off the Oracle pattern, making it a full 34 feet.
All synthetic rigged, glass rudders, Colligo endless line furlers. See the extensive inventory list and photos on Tampa bay craigslist. This cat is currently in Southern California.
Description: Stiletto 34, tall rig fresh water Cat
LOA: 34 ft
Beam: 20 ft
LWL: 34 ft
Mast height from the water line 45 ft.
Maximum Draft: 4 ft with dagger board down
Minimum draft: 8in
Fresh water, tank and galley cabinet (removable)
New porta-potti
New smoke LEXAN canopies
12 volt futures
Lewmar large hatches
VHF radio mounted
Spot Eperb rescue device
Full batten main used twice
New zippered storm jib
New mast head asymetrical spinnaker
New all synthetic standing hardware and rigging
New Colligo ìBig boatî endless line furlers on rolling trucks
New endless line running lines
Custom built articulating stainless rotator on mast base
New Lexan side ports (4) outer hull.
New openable side ports with screens(2) inner hull
Running backstays, all synthetic
New large Danforth anchor, chain and line
Stereo AM / FM CD and waterproof speakers
New 2î webbed tramp aft of the beam
Interior custom cushions
Galvanized dual axle Trailer with removable magnetic running, tail, brake and side lights
Must sell!! just lowered my price from 49k to $25,999.00 O.B.O
Check out the film short
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photo_170
Friday Night Jack Attack / Saradota Sailing Squadron
Is ready for the full moon...
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9F41E6AE-A0D2-452E-9F98-292585EA2B49
New Forum
Welcome to the New Forum. The new format will allow uploading of images, formating along with voting on posts and replys. The layout will also makes for easier viewing. The new search is fast and easier to navigate. Reply to this post with comments on this new forum. If you have any issues please send me a
TILLER RAISES WHILE SAILING
Friends, I have owned and sailed my Stiletto 27 for several years now and this year an issue has come up that some of you may have experienced. When I'm sailing fast (say above 8 knots) the starboard tiller begins to lift out of its casing. The lifting up of the starboard tiller is more pronounced than the port one on either tack. If I let it go, the rudder actually comes up out of the water. I tried to bungee the tiller down and that may have helped somewhat but has not prevented it entirely. I'd appreciate any feedback in solving this problem. Any suggestions? Ron
Replying to Ron Hoodin comments:There should be a white plastic eyestrap on top of your tiller, above the pintles & gudgeons. A length of fairly heavy bungee is supposed to be threaded through that, extending down both sides of the rudder head and looped under the lower pintle. It should be tensioned tight enough to hold the rudder down, but not so tight that the tiller doesn't have full range of motion. That should take care of local sailing.
If you're planning to sail hard offshore, you can drill a 3/16" diameter hole through the rudder cheek plates and tiller arm; and insert a wooden dowel. The dowel will shear if you hit something hard.
Peter
If you're planning to sail hard offshore, you can drill a 3/16" diameter hole through the rudder cheek plates and tiller arm; and insert a wooden dowel. The dowel will shear if you hit something hard.
Peter
DEUCE COUPE SOLD
After 14 years of enjoyment, Christopher and I have sold Deuce Coupe to Travis Yates in Sarasota. He's an active performance sailor, so the Sarasota fleet has gained a good boat.
We still have Dream Date, so we will be reassembling, re-launching and sailing her for now. My hope is that we will come across another someone to buy her and jump into the Stiletto fun.
I've noticed that the best way to get me creating new boats is to take away the ones I have. The vacuum created is bound to suck something cool into being... some events have occurred lately (like selling my favorite boat) that have me interested in doodling a new 26-27'cat.
Peter
We still have Dream Date, so we will be reassembling, re-launching and sailing her for now. My hope is that we will come across another someone to buy her and jump into the Stiletto fun.
I've noticed that the best way to get me creating new boats is to take away the ones I have. The vacuum created is bound to suck something cool into being... some events have occurred lately (like selling my favorite boat) that have me interested in doodling a new 26-27'cat.
Peter
MAIN HALYARD ROPE
I am looking to replace my main halyard rope on a Stilleto 23 that is not raced but used in heavy wind situations. I am looking for suggestions as per correct size/diameter, //// per replacement type: Vectran vs dyneema vs T900 vs spectra, single braid vs double braid, acceptable breaking strength, //// and also per debate of knot vs key shackle/captive pin with bar (vs snap shackle) on headboard. Thanks in advance!
Steve
Steve
Replying to Steve Garrah comments: The stock 23' main halyard is 5/16" line with 5/32" 7x19 wire spliced. This works well with least amount of friction when raising and lowering with minimal stretch. All line 8mm will also work. I can supply you with either one. Ron
DRY SAIL 23 FROM TRAILER
Can anyone tell me how to safely hoist my S23 using a 4000 lb hoist with 8 foot arm designed to drysail Solings (4k lb capacity). I do not anticipate beam as an issue but am looking for specific info on lift harness attachment points (presumably 4?) and the balance point of the boat to prevent any nasty incidents.
cheers
Dave
cheers
Dave
Replying to Dave Nurse comments: I've done it a number of times by rigging a 3-point sling. The front two legs go around the main beam, right next to the hulls - so you can get it past the trampoline in the corners. The third leg goes to the center of the rear beam. An alternative for the third leg is to use the mainsheet. The tackle allows you to adjust the angle of the boat. Depending on how it is loaded, the CG should be about 12-18" behind the mast. Depending on the hoist, you may want to lift it slightly bow down, to keep the hoist from banging on the mast.
Peter
Peter
Replying to Dave Nurse comments:
Never actually used a hoist to launch my boat but I've read on the forums here that you should attach on the middle and aft crossbeams close to the hull. Balance point shouldn't be a problem but a safety line to the centre of the forward beam would be advised I'd think.
Never actually used a hoist to launch my boat but I've read on the forums here that you should attach on the middle and aft crossbeams close to the hull. Balance point shouldn't be a problem but a safety line to the centre of the forward beam would be advised I'd think.
STRIPPED BOLTS
21 has threads stripped on the long cross arm hold down bolt. Any ideas for an easy fix?
NEW TRAMP, LOOKS GREAT
A week before I launched my boat, I noticed my trampoline was looking really bad, with all rotted stitching. This thing had 15+ years of use on it. I called Ron at Stiletto hoping he might have one in stock. He did and he shipped it that day. I had it before the week-end. Wow it really makes the boat look good. Thanks Ron!
S30 TRANSPORT
A few weeks ago I sold one of my S27's and delivered it to Atlanta from WI. I put it right on top of my 34ft powerboat trailer while it was still on it's own trailer. Very easy to load and unload I must say.
Then continued on to Palmetto FL to pick up my first S30. I had already pre-fabbed a few special fixtures for the trailer to convert it for the S30 transport. Chris Ferrante (previous owner)had the basic hull configuration all planned out and I used his ideas. It's pretty simple, first both hulls are raised 24" off the trailer bed, with one hull flipped and reversed. Loading was very easy, we used a crane to lift the hulls onto the trailer. The 30 actually towed easier than the 27 had on the way down because it had less frontal area protruding above the truck thus less wind resistance.
The trip home was uneventful,with lots of people asking either "what is that!?" or "how many boats do you have there, one or two?" Unloading was quite easy, just picked the hulls up with straps & my payloader, then rolled the inverted hull upright on foam blocks.
Trailer & loaded S30 were only 8"6" wide thus legal without permits. Trailer used was a 34ft tri-axle Loadmaster. Pictures are in Port 2015, any questions just ask. Now the fun part, I plan to add either wave-piercing or plumb bows,30" stern extensions, 44ft mast and anything else I can think of.....
Then continued on to Palmetto FL to pick up my first S30. I had already pre-fabbed a few special fixtures for the trailer to convert it for the S30 transport. Chris Ferrante (previous owner)had the basic hull configuration all planned out and I used his ideas. It's pretty simple, first both hulls are raised 24" off the trailer bed, with one hull flipped and reversed. Loading was very easy, we used a crane to lift the hulls onto the trailer. The 30 actually towed easier than the 27 had on the way down because it had less frontal area protruding above the truck thus less wind resistance.
The trip home was uneventful,with lots of people asking either "what is that!?" or "how many boats do you have there, one or two?" Unloading was quite easy, just picked the hulls up with straps & my payloader, then rolled the inverted hull upright on foam blocks.
Trailer & loaded S30 were only 8"6" wide thus legal without permits. Trailer used was a 34ft tri-axle Loadmaster. Pictures are in Port 2015, any questions just ask. Now the fun part, I plan to add either wave-piercing or plumb bows,30" stern extensions, 44ft mast and anything else I can think of.....
Replying to Doug Fitzgerald comments:
Holy Cow Doug! Thats pretty ingenious with the 30 on the trailer. The 27 with trailer on the big trailer cracked me up. Congrats on the 30!
Holy Cow Doug! Thats pretty ingenious with the 30 on the trailer. The 27 with trailer on the big trailer cracked me up. Congrats on the 30!
Replying to Guy Grafius comments: Hey Guy, first of all let me thank you again for maintaining this web site- it's a great source for all Stiletto owners and we all really appreciate your efforts to keep it going- thank you!
The story of my first S30 is quite interesting-back in Jan. of 2005 I was all set to buy a 30 from Ed Faidiga in Ohio, the price was pretty much agreed on and things looked good. Sadly for me just before it happened I got very sick with Lyme disease and had to call the whole deal off.... Then in Sept.2014 Chris Ferrante sold me his 30 from Palmetto, FL and lo and behold it turned out to be the exact same boat I almost bought 10 years ago! I guess fate said it was going to happen eventually....
The 27 & trailer loaded onto another trailer was simple because luckily the Harding trailer tire width fit exactly on the main frames of my Loadmaster trailer! - I just used the existing trailer winch to pull it up some oak 2x8 ramps I made and unloaded it the same way in Atlanta, very easy, a one person operation even.
As for the S30 trailer idea, Chris F initially came up with the general overall idea and it worked perfectly.I pre-made the raised frames in WI,then dropped off the 27 in Atlanta,then simply bolted the already built frames on in FL and loaded the 30. I used the mast supports off my other 27 trailer, the rear one had to be moved slightly off-center to clear the stbd hull but otherwise everything fit just as we expected-I set the whole trailer up in WI beforehand using only some hull measurements from Chris in FL and the 30 fit on it perfectly in FL!! Now that's good planning.... So yeah, anyone with a small front end loader could do the same thing,we used a crane to lower the mast but a long truss-setting type pole on the loader or skidster would work to lower the mast also. It helps to have a nice long trailer like I had too of course, plenty of room for the bridgedeck, etc.
So after owning five different 27s (and three of them at the same time for ten years)I finally got a 30, can't wait to try it out in May. I put a few more pictures up in Port 2015 that show the trailer details better.
The story of my first S30 is quite interesting-back in Jan. of 2005 I was all set to buy a 30 from Ed Faidiga in Ohio, the price was pretty much agreed on and things looked good. Sadly for me just before it happened I got very sick with Lyme disease and had to call the whole deal off.... Then in Sept.2014 Chris Ferrante sold me his 30 from Palmetto, FL and lo and behold it turned out to be the exact same boat I almost bought 10 years ago! I guess fate said it was going to happen eventually....
The 27 & trailer loaded onto another trailer was simple because luckily the Harding trailer tire width fit exactly on the main frames of my Loadmaster trailer! - I just used the existing trailer winch to pull it up some oak 2x8 ramps I made and unloaded it the same way in Atlanta, very easy, a one person operation even.
As for the S30 trailer idea, Chris F initially came up with the general overall idea and it worked perfectly.I pre-made the raised frames in WI,then dropped off the 27 in Atlanta,then simply bolted the already built frames on in FL and loaded the 30. I used the mast supports off my other 27 trailer, the rear one had to be moved slightly off-center to clear the stbd hull but otherwise everything fit just as we expected-I set the whole trailer up in WI beforehand using only some hull measurements from Chris in FL and the 30 fit on it perfectly in FL!! Now that's good planning.... So yeah, anyone with a small front end loader could do the same thing,we used a crane to lower the mast but a long truss-setting type pole on the loader or skidster would work to lower the mast also. It helps to have a nice long trailer like I had too of course, plenty of room for the bridgedeck, etc.
So after owning five different 27s (and three of them at the same time for ten years)I finally got a 30, can't wait to try it out in May. I put a few more pictures up in Port 2015 that show the trailer details better.
RETRIEVAL AFTER A CAPSIZE
I sold my Stiletto 27 two years ago after 6 years of great sailing and I now own a Corsair trimaran, but I come back once in a while to hear about the Stiletto family. When sailing a light multihull you always have in your mind the remote possibility of a capsize. Fortunately this never happened to me. I had always thought that righting an overturned multi should be done by pulling from the side. But I have read that this is not the way to do it and that this method does the most damage on the boat. The way to do it is to right bow-over-stern. Here are 2 videos that show how it is done.
VID 00000-20100718-1326.3GP
Saving Private Trimaran and Phils Bellybutton
I hope none of you ever has to right yout cat, but this information might be useful
Paul
VID 00000-20100718-1326.3GP
Saving Private Trimaran and Phils Bellybutton
I hope none of you ever has to right yout cat, but this information might be useful
Paul
STILETTO 27
We have several Stiletto 27's for sale in the 15-25K range. Call or e-mail for more info.
Ron Nicol 941-350-WIND
Ron Nicol 941-350-WIND
BEST COCKPIT CUSHION INSTALLATION METHOD?
Hello everyone, I found a great company in Texas (C Cushion) to make the cockpit cushions for both sides for $770 dollars. The only missing piece to the puzzle is whether to utilize snaps or a bolt rope to secure the cushions in place when the boat is under way. Any suggestions from experience on this? I prefer the bolt rope and my idea is to install the feeder track on the front edge of the cockpit seat area to try to eliminate the sheet lines from getting stuck underneath and lifting the cushions up during sailing maneuvers. Any thoughts or advice would greatly be appreciated. Cheers! - Capt. Eric
Reply: I had my cushions made in two sections for each side. On the back of each cushion I had 3 loops sewed in. I have small u shaped bracket on each end of the fiberglass cockpit. I use a small snap shackle to attach to each bracket. I run a single piece of shock cord through the total of the six loops and attach on each end. This allows the cushions to be easily attached and secured during sailing.
cell phone is 412 601 4232 call for any more details.
God BLess, Gene
cell phone is 412 601 4232 call for any more details.
God BLess, Gene
Reply: I had my cushions made in two sections for each side. On the back of each cushion I had 3 loops sewed in. I have small u shaped bracket on each end of the fiberglass cockpit. I use a small snap shackle to attach to each bracket. I run a single piece of shock cord through the total of the six loops and attach on each end. This allows the cushions to be easily attached and secured during sailing.
cell phone is 412 601 4232 call for any more details.
God BLess, Gene
cell phone is 412 601 4232 call for any more details.
God BLess, Gene
Replying to Eugene Scarberry comments:
Gene, I did much the same thing. However, my modificaton included ensuring that the foam on the inside of the cushion was closed cell foam. That helpd avoid water absorsion and if the boat goes over or in a MOB situation, the cushion(s) make for somethng floatable to hang on to or throw.
The other modificaiton I made was to cut the top 12-14 inches off a couple of old solid closed cell floating pool mattresses. They each have a section that is rolled over to double the thickness for the last six inches or so on the mattresses' top.
I like using these to add a bit more "comfy cushioning" to my backside when long distance sailing. The rolled section placed towards the boat's centerline help keep me in place when the boat is heeling.
Wow, now all I need is a bit of sun to warm up these cold Utah temperatures and to thaw out the boat for some more fun in the sun or another tirp to the warm Sea of Cortez.
It is summer yet???
Merry Chirstmas, happy holidays, and my best to all those who help make and keep this site running and a great plce to visit.
We all have much to be thankful for, including the things that are hard and can help to make us stronger and wiser, and the friends who help us through such times.
Tom
Gene, I did much the same thing. However, my modificaton included ensuring that the foam on the inside of the cushion was closed cell foam. That helpd avoid water absorsion and if the boat goes over or in a MOB situation, the cushion(s) make for somethng floatable to hang on to or throw.
The other modificaiton I made was to cut the top 12-14 inches off a couple of old solid closed cell floating pool mattresses. They each have a section that is rolled over to double the thickness for the last six inches or so on the mattresses' top.
I like using these to add a bit more "comfy cushioning" to my backside when long distance sailing. The rolled section placed towards the boat's centerline help keep me in place when the boat is heeling.
Wow, now all I need is a bit of sun to warm up these cold Utah temperatures and to thaw out the boat for some more fun in the sun or another tirp to the warm Sea of Cortez.
It is summer yet???
Merry Chirstmas, happy holidays, and my best to all those who help make and keep this site running and a great plce to visit.
We all have much to be thankful for, including the things that are hard and can help to make us stronger and wiser, and the friends who help us through such times.
Tom
Replying to Eugene Scarberry comments:
Gene, I did much the same thing. However, my modificaton included ensuring that the foam on the inside of the cushion was closed cell foam. That helpd avoid water absorsion and if the boat goes over or in a MOB situation, the cushion(s) make for somethng floatable to hang on to or throw.
The other modificaiton I made was to cut the top 12-14 inches off a couple of old solid closed cell floating pool mattresses. They each have a section that is rolled over to double the thickness for the last six inches or so on the mattresses' top.
I like using these to add a bit more "comfy cushioning" to my backside when long distance sailing. The rolled section placed towards the boat's centerline help keep me in place when the boat is heeling.
Wow, now all I need is a bit of sun to warm up these cold Utah temperatures and to thaw out the boat for some more fun in the sun or another tirp to the warm Sea of Cortez.
It is summer yet???
Merry Chirstmas, happy holidays, and my best to all those who help make and keep this site running and a great plce to visit.
We all have much to be thankful for, including the things that are hard and can help to make us stronger and wiser, and the friends who help us through such times.
Tom
Gene, I did much the same thing. However, my modificaton included ensuring that the foam on the inside of the cushion was closed cell foam. That helpd avoid water absorsion and if the boat goes over or in a MOB situation, the cushion(s) make for somethng floatable to hang on to or throw.
The other modificaiton I made was to cut the top 12-14 inches off a couple of old solid closed cell floating pool mattresses. They each have a section that is rolled over to double the thickness for the last six inches or so on the mattresses' top.
I like using these to add a bit more "comfy cushioning" to my backside when long distance sailing. The rolled section placed towards the boat's centerline help keep me in place when the boat is heeling.
Wow, now all I need is a bit of sun to warm up these cold Utah temperatures and to thaw out the boat for some more fun in the sun or another tirp to the warm Sea of Cortez.
It is summer yet???
Merry Chirstmas, happy holidays, and my best to all those who help make and keep this site running and a great plce to visit.
We all have much to be thankful for, including the things that are hard and can help to make us stronger and wiser, and the friends who help us through such times.
Tom
Replying to Tom House comments: Tom - C-Cushions are some sort of closed cell foam that they somehow heat seal the surface of. They're pretty cool - you might want to check them out. It's a family business run by really nice people. The son of the founders was an early Stiletto sailor. I remember that the early cushions were slippery when wet, but they've probably dealt with that by now.
I agree that loops are better than snaps. Snaps are destined to fail in a salt marine environment.
I agree that loops are better than snaps. Snaps are destined to fail in a salt marine environment.
WildJibe has been inactive for over a year. I've decided to sunset it. I will leave the site up as is. I have set all subscriptions to sunset on their anniversary. Thank you for all the support over the years!
I've moved on to a larger boat. You can follow my adventure at
https://svtrouble.com